Tag Archives: restoration
Some before, during and after of a little paint project I did on my wifes motorcycle. Same process applies to any touch up you may want to do on your Beetle’s interior parts. I’m no expert, but I’ve done it enough to know that it works and lasts. Total cost of this project was 18 dollars, total time spent (even when the paint was drying), 3.5 hours. Parts needed for this project: Glazing/Spot putty, putty spreader, automotive paint, clear coat, 600 grit sand paper, 2000 grit sand paper, polishing compound and a buffer (orbital or drill). First things first! If you can remove the part that you want to restore, that’s a plus. I started removing the scratched part and scuffed it with 600 grit sand paper. Next was to fill in the imperfections and scratches with spot putty. I applied the spot putty twice, making sure that it was hardened before sanding. I then sanded the whole part again with 600 grit sand paper, first dry, then wet sanded. Now it’s ready for paint. Before the paint, make sure your part is totally dry and CLEAN! Before I painted, I sprayed the part with Dupli-color paint prep that I had left from the Camaro splitter project. I gave the part 3 coats of paint, letting it dry and wet sanding with 2000 grit sand paper in between the 2nd and 3rd coat and after the 3rd coat. Once I was satisfied with coverage, I gave it 3 coats of cleat coat, again, letting it dry thoroughly in between coats. After the 3rd coat of clear coat was dry, I wet sanded the part with 2000 grit sand paper. (little tip: when painting and clear coating, it was hot outside (89 degrees), I held the spray can about 8 inches away from the part, using side to side motion and spraying past the edge each time) After wet sanding with 2000 grit sand paper to a smooth finish, I spent about 15 minutes buffing with polishing compound and a orbital buffer. Last step was a nice coat of wax. Not too bad for 18 dollars and a few hours work.
Got the new sled tins in from Chircoestore.com today. Props to Joe at Chrico! I ordered these off of Ebay on morning and later that night, I realized that I had ordered chrome tins instead of black. Dropped Joe an email and explained what happened and he replaced them before they were shipped out. Exactly why I like to order parts from Joe! Hopefully the industrial shields will be here tomorrow and I can get these installed.
I guess it’s safe to say that the engine is about 99.9% complete now. I need to finish the carb rebuild, add the sled tins and hose from the breather to the oil filler and that’ll be that. Three and a half months of cold weekend nights in the garage, watching Breaking Bad (for the 3rd time) and escaping the real world for a few hours each night. I’m happy with the end result. I’m confident that I could easily get a good return on my investment to this point if need be. Of course, for me, my time is free….my wife may disagree. lol Hindsight being 20/20, here are my tips thus far for anybody else starting a project like this. And this only covers the engine build, cleaning, etc.
1. Take lots and lots of pictures. Not only to admire your progress, but it’ll also help you when it comes time to put everything together.
2. Take lots of notes. I document everything I do, not only with pics, but lots of notes and diagrams.
3. Tools! Have the right tools for the job.
4. Patience! Temper tantrums, cussing and fist banging will ensue! Be patient…know when to walk away from the project for a while.
5. Budget. Know your spending limits. Don’t get in over your head!
6. Don’t throw anything away! What may seem like junk to you may be gold for a fellow VW enthusiast.
7. Aftermarket parts….Everybody will have their own opinions on aftermarket parts, for me, I’ll walk the fence. Buy your parts from reputable sellers, there are plenty out there, I have a lot of them listed on our web site. I keep track of every part I buy, where I bought it from and how much I paid for it. Hopefully this will help somebody else. Regardless, try to get your hands on as many original parts as you can. Nothing beats a working original part!
8. Do as much of the work as you can, but be smart enough to know when you’re out of your league and seek help when that time comes. When in doubt, don’t second guess yourself. There are plenty of books and web sites that have the answer you’re seeking. Take the time to look it up!
9. Have fun! For me, working on this project is an escape. A way to submerge yourself into something that you have total control of, even when the garage is freezing cold! lol
10. Be realistic. I’m in this for the long haul. I allotted 3 years for my project Beetle. That’s a realistic goal for me because I won’t have the time, money and knowledge to do everything myself. I’ll have to spread it out over the next couple of years, but still do as much as I can, when I can.
There….10 easy tips to get you on your way. Feel free to add your own input in the comments!
Had some time this evening to start making new wires for the engine compartment. A much lesser task that it’s going to be when I have to replace the wiring harness, but at least it’s a start. Also got the oil cooler tins that I ordered from JBugs in the mail today. They’ll be installed tomorrow after work. Other than the sled tins and air filter, the engine portion of the project is complete. The goal was to finish the engine before the end of winter, so I’m a bit ahead of schedule. Now it’s time to re-focus on the body and chassis, work up a game plan and go from there. Still a lot of decisions to be made. I’m confident that I could sell the 1835 motor as it is right now and recoup all of the money that I have into the project so far. Of course, for me, my time is free. It’s easy to get in over your head quick, that’s why I’m trying not to be in a rush to get anything done. Plan, plan and more planning.
Just looking back at some pics, the pic on the left is my engine in it’s current state, the pic on the right was taken on 11/07/2014 just before I removed it from the car. Lots and lots of elbow grease and tlc makes a big difference.
Realized after I mounted my coil last night that I didn’t take into consideration the clearance needed for the stock air cleaner. Luckily. there’s no issue. But it does have me wondering if I should stick with the stock air cleaner or go for an aftermarket air cleaner.
I went ahead and ordered a EMPI 9044 air cleaner because I think the stock air cleaner just looks to much out of place. I’ll keep the stock air cleaner just because it’s an OEM part, but I think the EMPI air cleaner is going to look much better.
Installed the coil mount tonight with the aid of a threaded insert riveter. If you’ve ever used a regular rivet gun, you can use a threaded insert riveter. It’s a great tool for adding mounting points to all types of sheet metal. You can pick one up fairly cheap at your local hardware or automotive store. I got mine for $19.99 and it included 45 inserts of various sizes and the tooling for those threaded rivets. I put together a quick little video (sorry for the SD quality, my GoPro wasn’t charged) to demonstrate how easy it is. Enjoy!