Door and Window Gasket and Seal Replacement Part 2
One thing I forgot to mention in the first post was removing the door check rod (the rod that’s anchored to the body pillar with a pin and keeps the door from opening too far. Refer to pic #1) and replacing the rubber bumper. Refer to pic #1. Again, this differs from year to year. You have to remove the pin that connects the rod to the body pillar anyhow to replace the rubber door seal. Once you remove the pin that’s held in with a C clip, you can slide the rod out through the door towards the inside. Tonight I got the rivets installed to secure the new vent latch to the vent window frame. Pic #2. Then I reinstalled the vent window into the frame. I used some WD40 on the shaft that runs through the rubber and vent window frame to make it easier to install. WD40 and soapy water will be your best friend during this project. I also removed the retaining plate that secures the rod of the vent window to the frame, it’s held in place with a 10mm bolt. Makes reinstalling the window into the frame much easier. It’s also a good time to apply some grease to the rod of the vent window so it’ll spin easily. Once the vent window is installed you’ll have to replace the mushroom rivet that connects the top of the vent window to the vent window frame. Pic #4. Whether you use a rivet or a bolt, don’t forget the washer that separates these two pieces. The rivets I ordered came with the washers. I bought a tool that’s used to compress the mushroom rivets. It did an ok job, but I think it would’ve worked better if the rivet was aluminum. The rivet that I ordered was much harder than aluminum (or at least it seems to be) and it was much harder to compress and flare. The tool helped get it started, then I reverted to a hammer and vice to finish the job. It wasn’t terribly hard, but you’ll have to be a little creative to see what’s best for you. Of course the easiest thing to do is to use a little bolt and nut. It’s up to you. Now it was time to reinstall the vent window assembly. I’ll be honest with you, a little cussing was involved. You’ll have to be careful not to slide it around too much, you’ll scratch your paint and new aluminum on the outside scrapers. That’s why it’s important to remember how you got it out. What I did was to lube up the rubber on the end of the scrapers where the vent window frame has to slide down through the door. On the inner scraper, I pulled the rubber flap back and out of the way so the frame would slide down through the door without pinching the rubber. Then it’s just a matter of pushing the vent window assembly towards the front of the door. It’ll be tight with the new rubber, but not hard at all. If everything is lined up properly, the screw hole at the top of the vent window frame should line up with the threads in the top of the door. Don’t forget to reinstall the screw that secures it. Then reinstall the bolt the secures the pillar of the vent window to the door. Refer to pic #3, #4, #5 and #6. Now you can take the piece of rubber that you folded back on the inner scraper and slide it back down between the vent window pillar and the door skin. At this point, I reinstalled the door check rod with the new bumper and secured it with the pin and C clip. Only thing left tonight was to reinstall the window. With the vent window back in place, I secured the heavy felt channel from the top of the vent window pillar, along the top and side of the door, down to the last clip in inside of the door. I used new clips that came with the door kit, some people reuse the ones that they removed. Either way, with the help of a rubber mallet, it installed without issue, you don’t have to hit it hard. Once I slid the glass behind the regulator, it was just a matter of pushing it up through the new scrapers then securing it to the regulator. You’ll appreciate an extra set of hands for this step. Make sure all of your bolts are buttoned up, throw the window crank handle on and give it a try. It will be tight! I sprayed everything down with glass cleaner before attempting to row up the window, you’ll want it lubricated well or you risk damaging your window regulator. The only thing I have left to do on this door is to reinstall a vapor barrier. I need to make a trip to Lowes or Home Depot tomorrow to get supplies. Once the vapor barrier is in place, I’ll replace the door panel and install he new hardware for the window crank handle, then off to start on the passenger side door. So far, this project hasn’t been terribly hard. It’s not something you want to be in a rush with, use the right tools for the job and just about anybody can do it. More to follow! Just remember, everything is going to be tight until your new seals compress and conform. Nothing a few warm days in the sun won’t take care of.
Door and Window Gasket and Seal Replacement Part 1
Door and Window Gasket and Seal Replacement Part 3
Door and Window Gasket and Seal Replacement Part 4
Door and Window Gasket and Seal Replacement Part 5 Final
(Visited 82 times, 1 visits today)