Got my wing window release latches from CIP1.com in the mail today. I now have everything I need to change all the rubber, scrapers, etc. on both doors. Even though we’re having a semi mild winter, I still think I’m going to wait until early spring to take on this project, I know it’s not going to be easy. Regardless, I’m excited to get it done and to make Mabels doors look awesome again!
My awesome wife surprised me with new German window and door kits for Mabel. All other rubber and seals on the car have already been replaced, the last piece of the puzzle was new seals and window treatment for the doors. I’ve been putting it off for some time because the German kits are expensive and replacing them is not an easy project and time consuming. Great kit from JBugs, complete with instructional video on dvd. Probably won’t start on this project until spring and it’s probably going to be a whole weekend kind of project, but can’t wait to freshen up Mabels doors!
Getting some decorations up for Christmas, took Mabel out for a drive around town. Something I’m considering is putting her back to stock. She’s 100% stock other than the narrowed front beam and gas burner rims. Inside, nothing has changed since 1967. So, here’s my question. The front beam is new, 3 inch narrow beam built by Rusty Bottom Garage with new tierods and German ball joints with CB drop disc spindles. What I’m considering doing is putting the stock front beam back on (1968). How much of a pain in the ass is this going to be?
Mid November, but still warm enough to get Mabel out and enjoy her. Actually, it was warm enough to give her a final bath for the year. Also gave Ruby (our Camaro) a bath as well. I usually don’t push products, but I have to admit, this Blue Magic tire shine is the best I’ve ever used. I’ve been using it on all of my cars since this past spring and I’m super impressed by it. Unlike others, it doesn’t wash off in the rain and keeps the tires black and shiny, love this stuff. Also got the Mabels valve cover gaskets in the mail today. This was the last item of her “tune up” that I wanted to replace, so I got those installed as well. Unfortunately, you can feel winter in the air and our days of 60 and 70 degree weather is coming to a slow end. I plan to get Mabel out and drive her as much as I can, she’s running better than ever!
Today was a good day to get Mabel out and take her for a spin around town. She got a fresh oil change, strainer change and gasket change. This is the best she’s ran since I bought her. It’s amazing what a good distro, carb and valve tune up can do for these Beetles. She’s happy and resting comfortably, looking forward to getting her out for a spin tomorrow.
So the carb kit that I ordered from Carb Junky arrived in the mail today. After work, I decided to throw in the float, new gasket and give her a try. As always, she fired right up and the anticipation mounted as I waited for the choke to release. Once it released, to continued to idle like her old self. I let her run for about 15 minutes, throttle was responsive and no more rich smelling exhaust. I still need to adjust the mix as she’s idling a little high, but I also need to get the oil changed again since so much fuel had seeped into the case. I’ll get around to that on Friday evening. So for now, she starts right up, cold or hot and idles like her old self. Thanks to everybody who chimed in with advice, especially the folks at thesamba.com.
May have found the carb issue with Mabel. I took the carb apart last night to clean the jets and tested the float. However, I tested the float in water which is heavier than gas, so it floated fine in water, but as you can see from the pics above, it doesn’t float in gas. These floats are notorious for absorbing gas over time and becoming too heavy to float. In the video below, you can see how rough it’s running and gas coming through the bypass. It’s not being cut off, therefore flooding the carb. Hopefully a new float will solve the problem.
Here are the preliminary results….drum roll…I took the carb off and pulled it apart…very clean looking, but I removed all the jets and cleaned them with carb cleaner, blew them all with 60 psi….all openings in the carb were cleaned with carb cleaner and blown out as well…float floated, so no issue there…As I mentioned before, I’m not a carb guy and while we can never be 100% sure, I’m 99.9% sure that this carb is clean…installed the carb, threw in a little starting fluid to get her going and of course, she fired right up…idled fine for about 40 seconds then began to spit and sputter, but not nearly as bad as before…she didn’t die…I began to adjust the volume control by first turning it all of the way in, then backing it out 4 turns, the bypass screw all the way in, the back out 2.5 turns. Idle was still rough, so I backed the bypass screw out 4 more turns and the volume control out 2 more turns….idle was better and she didn’t die…I let it run for about 15 minutes at idle, giving it some gas every few minutes….engine was good and hot…so, better than before, but here’s what I discovered…intake was still ice cold…heat riser on 3 and 4 cylinder was a little warm, but far from hot….heat riser on the 1 and 2 cylinder was very warm, but not extremely hot….main body of the intake was cold….so, that’s where I’m at…it idles (not ideally, but it idles)…so, what I’m thinking is that my vintage Abath exhaust may need replacing (possibly)….exhaust is still very, very rich smiling, I reek of carbon monoxide…lol garage is full of it and I have to open the door to breath….You can see in the pic above the exhaust residue on my leg, still very rich. I’m still confident that it’s running too rich, how to adjust that, I don’t know….I’m also confident that fuel has made its way into the case…I changed the oil about 200 miles ago and it’s already very thin….and a bit fuller than it should be…